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Had these heads done at my local engine shop. He's done many heads for me. Never had a problem. He cut very little off these heads. You could still see stains where the combustion chambers were. I torqued 'em down and now I have valve/piston contact. Luckily I rolled the engine over before putting it all back together. ANybody else had this problem? WHat do you do about these heads? Get new ones? Can these be fixed by grinding the valves and seats down? Think I can reuse the gaskets? What about the head bolts? Probably not the bolts, but please tell me the gaskets will be OK. Where do I need to get new heads if I need them?

That has got to be one a those "Houston we got us a problem" moments.

Assuming that there is nothing between the piston and the head (nut, small bolt, socket, etc) when a diesel head is resurfaced the valves and seats must be machined accordingly. There are shops and machine shops that will take issue with that but I have seen it too often. Yes if the engine has not been run the head gaskets should be able to be reused. Head bolts? I wouldn't take a chance. hth.

Another thing I just thought of is: When the engine was taken apart, was the push rods kept in order? Not keeping them in order took me for a ride some time back.

I would spring for the studs for it, I have used a couple sets and they just "feel" so much better during the torque process, and haven't had any problems with them either. I agree with the push rods, have you removed them and tried to turn it over? Pull glow plugs so it has no compression and it will be easier to turn ( not trying to insult your intellagence, just easy to over look that simple thing, no I wall not be telling how I know this).

liljoe wrote:I would spring for the studs for it, I have used a couple sets and they just "feel" so much better during the torque process, and haven't had any problems with them either. I agree with the push rods, have you removed them and tried to turn it over? Pull glow plugs so it has no compression and it will be easier to turn ( not trying to insult your intellagence, just easy to over look that simple thing, no I wall not be telling how I know this).

Now why not just tell us? We already know!

Oh it's definitely the valves. No glow plugs are in. No injectors either. Pushrods are all the same length. Kept them in order anyway.
I've already taken the heas back off. Had the machine shop get specs on valve recession and added a couple thousandths. Gonna torque 'em back down in the morning and see

This sucks. The head set I got came with the bolts. How are you guys gettign them seperate? APR?

I get the studs from ARP through summit racing, about $500.00, but nice parts.

I used ford ones. The torque on those if I remember was a ton

Yeah, the ford spec is 115lbs plus 270 degrees in three steps. Took me and a helper with a long cheater bar to get them tight enough. The ARP studs are torqued to 210 lbs in three even steps using supplied lube on the nuts and washers. The differance in the "feel" of the two is amazing to me, the studs just feel so much more substantial, they do not feel "springy" like the TTY bolts do. Just a couple weks ago I threw awy two sets of ford bolts cause I had no use for them and they had been sitting around the shop for some time. I sure would of been glad to give to you and sent them to you, sorry. That is the reason that I wind up hangging on to so many things for so long cause I always think someone will need this one day and I can give it away instead of throwing it away.

I had to use a cheater bar also and man I felt they were way to tight. I was tired from just doing them. I only got the bolts with the head gasket set i cant remember why I think it was cheaper that way but not sure. Had a run of them 6.0's for a while and now havent seen one for a few months. Everything comes in runs. No clutches all year and 6 in the last month?

Yeah, its crazy how this stuff comes in. I've been doing almost nothing but 6.0 diesels for the past three weeks. Oil coolers, egr coolers, and this nightmare. I just finished trying it again and guess what.... still hitting. I talked to my machine guy, and we agreed to just order a set of heads from a company I found on the web. $900 exchange to my door. They seemed like they had done many sets of these and knew what to do. Before I bolt em down, me and the machine shop guy are gonna measure everything to figure out what they did to make it work.

I sure wish I had those bolts, but I know how it is. You cant keep everything or you'll run out of space to work. And yes, they are very tight. You have to take a few breaks when doing it.

Could you post the name of this place please?

National Cylinder Head 866-453-1011

i use alabama cylinder head. great bunch of guys and great product. i'm wondering if the heads that you're having issues with have already been machined. sometimes i've seen that. i wish there was a scribe on the side of the head to let you know if it's been machined before. personally i haven't had any head issues with these but i may be inclined to use or strongly suggest a replacement.

Ya know. This is really interesting. In looking into Mitchel On Demand Service Info, it clearly says that "Cylinder heads used on a diesel engine cannot be resurfaced." However it does go on to say that if a head is suspected of being resurfaced there is a minimum thickness spec. Somewhat confusing. Oh well. We see this kind of thing at various times.

Minimum thickness is 3.74 Don remember where I seen that. I don't see what that matters if you cut the seats to match what you take off the head. The guy at the head place said he takes up to .005 off. Wouldn't say how he makes it work.

just cutting seats will not change the valve travel. you need to shorten the valve by trimming the top.

I didn't specify, but they always grind the stem to match what they take off the seats.

I got the heads from National. There was a big difference in the valve recession. Bolted em down and had no interference. Truck is running. I gotta work out a couple more unrelated issues but...